A Tour around Bethlehem

Statue of St Jerome outside the Church of the Nativity

Day 1 – A tour around Bethlehem

In Aramaic and Hebrew, ‘Bethlehem’ Means House of Bread. Being the birthplace of King David, Bethlehem was already a significant and historical city by the time of Jesus. Travelling from nearby Beit Sahour, our guide took us to Manager Square and the Church of the Nativity, explaining it’s history from founding in the 4th century to today.

Candles in the Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem

Steeped in history, you have to stoop through a deliberately low door to enter- our guide telling us that the pre-existing tall doorway had been lowered to prevent tax collectors on horseback entering, and also ensuring that all those entering would have to bow their heads in the process! Inside one appreciates a sense of deep history of the place. The traditional birth-place of Jesus is in a grotto below the church, as is the cave where St Jerome stayed to create the Vulgate translation of the Bible.  Outside in a courtyard we were shown bullet hoes where Israeli forces had laid siege to the Church, killing several of those who took sanctuary within.

Dheishah refugee camp – 13,000 people live in 1 sq km

We were taken on a tour of Dheishah refugee camp, one of four such camps in Bethlehem. Most of the occupants of the camp were those families evicted from their homes in Palestine in 1948 by Jewish forces when the State of Israel was created, turning 750,000  people into refugees.  Today, Dheishah camp has a population of 13,000 people, living in 1 square kilometre.  From 1948 till today Israel has consistently refused to negotiate or compensate the refugee families, despite United Nations Resolution 194, which defines the Right of Return of all peoples of the conflict.

 

 

The Separation wall in Bethlehem is 24 feet (8m) high

We visited the Separation Wall which snakes around enclosing the Bethlehem area and into Bethlehem itself. At intervals along the 24foot high structure there are watch towers, cameras and other surveillance equipment.  One large area of Bethlehem is encased like a box, inside which is Rachel’s Tomb, accessible to visiting Israelis only. Covered in colourful graffiti which convey message of hope and peaceful resistance, including contributions by UK street artist Banksy, it is clear how the structure received it’s more usual name of the Apartheid Wall.

The Wall in Bethlehem, by Rachel’s Tomb

In the evening we were given a screening of the film The Iron Wall which documents the creation and construction of the Separation Wall, created by Israel.  Now some 760km long, the Wall consists of a 24 feet (8 metre) high concrete structure and electrified fence which twists and turns rather than following the recognised 1967 ceasefire line which is the internationally recognised separation line between Israel and the West Bank – which is only 360km long.  Rather than follow the border, the wall is mainly built on Palestinian land and annexes valuable farmland, water wells and settlements, often separating Palestinian villages from their own farm lands. The film was very moving as well as informative.

Ghosts of Deir Yassin

Musician Phil Monsours Ghosts of Deir Yassin song and video released in May 2012 powerfully captures the steadfast spirit of the Palestinian refugees hoping to return to their homes.

Filmed over five days in early 2012 the clip features the people from the Bourj el-Barajneh refugee camps in Beirut Lebanon and the Al Baqaa camp outside Amman in Jordan. The video includes images of people of all generations writing the names of their cities and villages in Palestine on their hands and holding them up to the camera. The song Ghosts of Deir Yassin, is a statement of hope on the Palestinian right of return and features the Palestinian spoken words artist Rafeef Ziadah reciting Fawda Tuqan’s poetry: “I hope one day to return to my beloved homeland, to the flowers and roses, I no longer fear their power, I will return.” (Electronic Intifada).

The 12 songs on Ghosts of Deir Yassin were written during a trip to Palestine, Jordan and Lebanon. Inspired by the courage of ordinary people fighting for freedom and justice from Palestine’s refugee camps, to Egypt’s Tahir square, through to the Occupy squares, the lyrics are a fearless rally cry for action and solidarity. The CD is available at CDbaby and other outlets. Musically, the CD is a unique collection of anthemic rock songs and folk ballads combined to capture both the alarm and optimism of current times.

20% of CD sales are donated to the Union Aid Abroad – APHEDA projects in the Middle East. these include the Gaza Emergency Appeal, Food Security Projects in the OPT and the Palestinian Camps Support Program. APHEDA is the international development agency of the Australian Council of Trade Unions.
Phil Monsour is a singer songwriter of Arab descent who lives in Australia. He is a founding member of Artists Against Apartheid – Australia.

Watch the video here (link through to YouTube):

#1. ‘Ghosts of Deir Yassin’

‘Ghosts of Deir Yassin’ is an anthemic rock song by Australian musician, Phil Monsour featuring spoken words artists Rafeef Ziadah.
I first heard this at a music and poetry evening in Oxford and since, this song has dominated my playlist morning, noon and night!

With its captivating video featuring young and old Palestinian refugees with the names of their dispossessed villages written on their hands, as the chorus: “You see that we are rising / Our day is surely coming / No longer in the shadows of the ghosts of Deir Yassin” is deeply powerful and touches every heart, you cannot help but think of the hurt and loss these people have endured and continue to do so in occupied Palestine.

Click here to read the full and personal commentary by Phil Monsour, complete with background and links to relevant articles.

(Click on the image below to watch the video on YouTube:)

 

Love and peace,
ThePalestinianOlive x